Why does red hair color fade so fast?

   This is a question that comes up frequently in the Salon. I hope that this explanation will shed some light on the subject. All artificial color fades over time, reds fade more quickly than the rest of the color palette particularly if you are having it applied in the U.S.
   The main reason that reds fade so quickly is that many years ago the FDA determined that the red dye stock molecule we used in our industry caused cancer in laboratory rats when you gave it to them in ridiculously excessive amounts. My thoughts on the subject were that rats already have a rough life, why would they want to make them live in a cage and deliberatly cause them to get cancer?

   Back to the subject, the dye stock that they replaced had a smaller molecular size than the one that they replaced it with, wich allowed it to penetrate deeper into the cuticle layer of the hair shaft giving it a better chance of staying in the hair for a longer period of time. The one that we are currently allowed to use, with it's larger molecular size, sits in the outer layer of the cuticle where it washes out of the hair more quickly.

   Another thing to consider is that the very bold, intense colors that are popular with some of our younger guests are only designed to stay in the hair for eight to ten shapooings. So, if you are looking for a more permanent color they are not a good option for you to choose.

   Here are some tips to help you keep your color longer. Sun and heat are an artificial redheads worst enemy. Keeping your hair covered during the sun and fun of summer is not always practical but it will slow down the rate at wich your color fades. Chlorinated water sources such as pools and hot tubs are hard on color treated hair, particularly hot tubs where the problem is compounded by heat. Rinse your hair thoroughly after chlorine exposure or cleanse with a clarifying shampoo and condition, condition,condition. Check your water temperature when showering or bathing. To some, a scalding hot showers feels good in the morning but it will make your hair color fade faster. The same goes for heat styling your hair. Blow dryers, flat irons and curling irons generate a lot of heat. Everytime you heat up the hair the, cuticle layer opens up resulting in a loss of pigment. Try to keep thermal styling to a minimum and you will keep your color longer.
    Talk to your stylist about  having a clear glaze applied after your color treatment. This will protect the hair and slow down fadage.Your best defense is to keep your hair in it's optimum condition by using  professional haircare products. There are many great products on the market that are designed specifically for color treated hair. Listen to your stylist when they recommend products for you to use at home. They know wich products will best fit the individual needs of your hair and wich ones will compliment the coloring products that they use. We use and recommend products by Kenra and Redken. My personal favorite is Kenra's Platinum. Their sulphate-free shampoos combined with their botanically enriched conditioners will keep your color fadage to a minimum. Redken's Color Protect is also a good choice.
   The bottom line is, you will never be able to keep your hair color from fading but it is my hope that by taking this advice it will slow the process down so that you can enjoy your color for a longer period of time.